Gougane Barra & Historic Lee Valley Heritage Tour

This day tour travels south along the Lee Valley to the Source of the River @ Gougane Barra one of Ireland's most romantic places

Leaving Cork we travel Past the old Military town of Ballincollig its military past is evident all through the town with place names like Barrack square and the Gunpowder mills

our First Stop is Kilkrea friary on the banks of the north bride river before heading to Beal na mBláth.

This Celtic cross monument set on an elevated railed red brick and limestone base marks the spot where General Michael Collins; commander-in-chief of the National Army and chairman of the Provisional Government (Realtas Sealadach) was shot dead during an ambush by anti-Treaty republican irregulars on Tuesday August 22nd 1922. The military convoy escort commanded by General Emmet Dalton comprised a motor-cycle outrider, a Leyland Thomas touring car containing Collins, a Rolls Royce Whippet armoured car (Sliabh na mBan) and a converted Crossley tender containing some twelve soldiers. That fateful morning the convoy had left the Imperial Hotel, Cork, proceeding to Macroom thence to Bandon via Bealnablath, next to Clonakilty, Rosscarbery and Skibbereen. Returning it stopped at Rosscarbery and Bandon before being ambushed at Beal na mBláth. Historians agree that Collins Cork tour had one or more main objectives; to boost the confidence of the populace in the midst of a bitter civil war, to bolster the resolve of the army as the irregulars retreated further west, to sort out misappropriated government funds in a Cork bank and to meet up with anti-Treaty leaders to end hostilities. In this latter regard many believe that the return evening route to the Macroom area was to meet neutral go-between republicans in the parochial house Lissarda. This would explain the circuitous route through Bealnablath since Collins´ principal destination was the Imperial Hotel to which he should normally reach via Innishannon or Crossbarry. The ambushing party was part of an anti-Treaty meeting near Bealnablath on the morning and when a scout spotted the Collins convoy driving south an ambush was set up should it return later. Believing that the convoy would not return by that route the engagement was called off with just a few men left taking up a road mine when the convoy suddenly appeared from the Mossgrove direction. Military experts now agree that Collins countermanding order to stop and fight as against Dalton´s “drive like hell” was militarily unprofessional and a dreadful mistake that cost him his life.The convoy with its dead leader moved off as dusk fell stopping at Cloughduv Church to seek the last rites and Annesgrove, Aherla, where the mortal wound was washed. Overcoming various obstacles the convoy reached Cork City and Shanakeil Hospital late that night. Local historians believe that two irregulars were also fatal victims of this tragic ambush. Since this awful day theories abound as to who fired the fatal shot. These can be summed up thus; a direct hit from the ambushing party; a ricochet bullet from the ambushing party; an accidental ricochet from the convoy; treachery or shot by a plant of the British secret service in the convoy; and the most bizarre; suicide or para-suicide by Collins from remorse of conscience for signing the Anglo-Irish Treaty and turning arms against his former comrades. Following a huge funeral procession through Cork City, Collins´ remains were taken by sea on the funeral ship Classic to Dublin. Tens of thousands lined the streets as the horse-drawn gun carriage rumbled on its sombre way from the Pro cathedral to Glasnevin cemetery where the young founding father of the state was buried with full military honours.

our next stop is Hopwood stone circle

Hopwood has a tranquel setting hidden away down a country lane only 5 minutes from Beal na Blaith

next its on to Kinneigh Round Tower

this is a wonderful example of a 12th century round tower

         

The typical round tower is a free standing cylindrically shaped building, usually in close proximity to a church and located most likely to its NW or SW side. Distribution fairly evenly covers most of Ireland and even some off shore islands, but two areas, south Munster and the north midlands, have relatively few. County Cork has only 2 extant examples but possibly had up to 6 in the past. In total there are c.64 surviving in Ireland. Round Tower windows always ascend clockwise, right to left, and very often four windows mark the upper storey. The latest treatise on Round Towers, Ireland’s Round Towers, 2004, by Tadhg O’Keeffe, classifies them using doorways and says doorways give the best indication of tower chronology, though dating them is difficult. In historical sources their destruction was more often recorded than their construction. The first historical reference to a Round Tower, Slane, Co. Meath, was in 950AD.Described as a ‘curious tower’ by O’Keeffe, Kinneigh uniquely has a hexagonal base measuring 18 ft high (fig.2). The drum measures 67ft 3in high and has a ‘marked batter’. In the mid 1800’s the upper section was added to allow a bell be inserted. It is built of slate laid in reasonably horizontal courses. The stone is ‘well squared, especially at the quoins of the base’. All the surviving windows and door are lintelled giving it a plain appearance. The doorway is in the NE face of the base at first floor level, which originally had a flagstone floor. Kinneigh Tower is one of eight Round Towers in Ireland that have all lintelled openings. Kinneigh is incomplete so the possibility exists that the upper storey windows were more elaborate. These 8 Towers have a wide distribution across Ireland and stylistically are very simple, and therefore difficult to date. Based on this ‘simple’ appearance an earlier date for Kinneigh’s construction is suggested by O’Keeffe, possibly the tenth or early eleventh century (c.900-c.1050AD). This suggests that the tower could be broadly contemporary with Cahirvagliar ringfort which was dated ‘within a century or two of the year 1000AD’ (c.800-c.1000AD), Any discussion of function must take into account the annalistic references to Round Towers. They are frequently referred to as cloicteach – bell houses. Death and fatality within towers is another theme, particularly the death of royal or high status persons.The actual morphology of Round Towers must also tell us something of their function being as they were singularly unique buildings in their time requiring deep resources, both in terms of money or patronage and craftsmanship. Their use as depositories for relics and/or treasures is another possible function. Looking at Kinneigh and attempting to tease out its origins and function we must surely take the proximity, both temporally and spatially, of Cahirvagliar bivallate ringfort into consideration. Here we have two high status sites built within possibly 100 years of each other. The distinct possibility exists that Kinneigh was patronised by the household that occupied Cahirvagliar, a household that appears to have had ample resources.

Cahirvagliair Ring Fort

 

 

 

 

 

 

Coppeen and its surrounding areas hold a wealth of historical sites, monuments, information, and of unique archaeological features. The fort of Cahirvagliair is one of these unique sites. It is a bivallate ringfort and was one of the chief residences of the Cineál Laoighaire. It has been suggested that the name comes from the Fort of the Son of Laoighaire “Cathair Mhac Laoighaire”.The fort has also been connected through local folklore to one of Ireland’s best known historical figures, Brian Boru. It is believed that Brian was held hostage here when he was a young boy between the ages of 8 and 16 years. It has been suggested that because of its size and the stonework in the entrance, that Cahirvagliair must have been built by someone of great importance and may even have been a royal residence.Cahirvagliair Fort was taken into state care in 1915, but despite this, the fort is in very poor condition. The fosses and ditches which were restored in 1983 and 84 are now in parts, almost non-existent after being flattened. The internal diameter is 42 meters and the overall diameter is 75 meters.

There are six stone circles in the Coppeen and surrounding area. This is a rare archaeological occurrence to have six stone circles within a two-mile radius. This may have something to do with the Bride River, which flows through Beal na Blath. The Bride River has a sacred significance as it derived its name from the old pagan goddess – Brigit/Bridget. She symbolized fertility.

 

                                                                                                                                                                    In this area, one comes across two types; composed of five stones, or multiple stones (contain seven or more stones). No person knows why some stone circles consist of five stones but it is believed they stand for the five elements: water, air, fire, earth, spirit. They are distinguished by the axis stones, which indicate their Astronomical Orientation. The main axis stone is easy to recognise as it lies on its side and found in the west or southwest side of the stone circle. It is also called the recumbent stone and has a smooth flat surface.

Besides telling the shortest day of the year, it is said that children were sacrificed on the recumbent stone to placate the sun god. One could say that stone circles were religious centres attended by the ancient inhabitants in the surrounding area. They also attracted tribal gatherings to worship their god – the sun. They feared and depended on the sun so much that each tribe elected a high priest to ensure and coax the rising of the sun the next morning, hence children sacrifices.

Gougane Barra

Nestled in the Derrynesaggart Mountains is the romantic lake of Gougane Barra, the source of the river lee. It is one mile long and about ¼ mile broad, bounded on all sides, except the east by precipitous mountains. Down the precipices wind numerous streams, which, after heavy rains, become foaming cataracts, “with a roaring noise like thunder”.See JJ Callanan.The whole scene is the most striking in Ireland. In the 7th Century, St Finbarr, a native of the locality, founded a monastery prior to establishing a monastery “ where the waters of the Lee meet the tide”, in Cork.In the middle of Gougane Barra lake is an island approached by a causeway, at the entrance to which is St Finbarr’s well and an ancient cemetery held in great veneration. On the island is a cluster of buildings, a small Church, and, adjoining it, the ruins of the conventual buildings. Eight small circular cells surround the court and in these cells are plaster casts of the Stations of the cross ; in the centre of the court is a wooden cross raised on a platform. An annual pattern and pilgrimage to St Finbarr is held here every September. Further up the valley is The National Forest Park, opened to the public in 1964 and has 254 hectares of forest and woodland to explore. The Park has drive through facilities and numerous pathways for all types of walkers. Gúgan Barra is part of the Muscraí (Muskerry) Gaeltacht, an area of West Cork where Irish is still to the fore. Coláiste na Mumhan (Irish College) was founded in Gougane Barra in 1904 to teach the Irish language to 'Timirí' (Irish language enthusiasts). The Coláiste then moved to Beal Áthan Ghaorthaidh (Ballingeary) and has celebrated summer schools since then. Daonscoil na Mumhan have an annual weekend in October every year in the hotel, where Irish is the spoken language and different topics of interest relating to the Irish language are discussed.

Lunch in the Gougane Barra hotel is a treat not to be missed the menu sourced from local produce is a showcase of Kat's culinary magic. this family run hotel is one of west Cork's Gems. Nestled on the Shore of the lake overlooking Gougane Barra island lunch is a visual as well as a culinary treat.

Tour time 8 hours

Sedan Car 320.00euro

8 seat min bus 400.00euro